Travelling to Uzbekistan? - This is your ultimate travel guide!

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If you have landed on this page, DO-NOT look further for information on Uzbekistan. This blog is the ultimate travel guide for your trip to Uzbekistan! An aggregation of must dos, tips, trivia and a traveler’s overview. The information is sourced from my own personal experience while travelling in the country DIY and all that I researched in the previous years. So, whether you intend to go to Uzbekistan now or later, save this tight piece of writing. Believe me its a literal giveaway! Also, drop a Thumbs up in the comment section if you find the blog useful!

Introduction

Why Uzbekistan??

It happened to be that I became a history buff as I immersed myself into tourism. And what better place to satisfy my thirst for Central Asian History than Uzbekistan, the most intact Silk Route country in the world! Uzbekistan is located in the heart deserts of Central Asia, on the Old Silk Route, the reason for its rich history and why i wanted to travel there. Powerful dynasties came, plundered and rebuilt the cities suiting their practices, cultural, political and economic, to mark a presence on the Silk Route, subsequently adding the flavor, thrill, essence to what we see now. It was that famous pub where everyone landed on a Friday evening, to not miss the party. These empires travelled with their artisans, chefs, poets, architects, policy makers, which resulted in a humbling fusion, one has to witness in this lifetime. Until 1800’s all traders passed through this oasis before they crossed the treacherous Taklamakan Deserts to reach China in pursuit of Silk, or the Forbidden high altitude passes of the Hindukush, Pamirs and Himalayas to reach the fertile Indian subcontinent for spices or continued the backbreaking journey to Persia. Old Cities of Uzbekistan still talk about the same.

This country was on the to-do list from my architecture school days because of its magnificent architecture and art.  Hence, to be finally experiencing it as an adult with added awareness above built form, made it more challenging to create an itinerary.  I thank Aishwarya for jumping into this adventure with me. We squeezed out 10N11d in September 2023, and put on our travel hats to embark our first journey to Central Asia. As first timers, we covered the famous historical settlements and cities of West & South Uzbekistan namely – Khiva, Bukhara, Samarkand and Tashkent.

We planned to stay with locals, travel light and sustainable, explore food though workshops, sketch the larger than life buildings, walk a lot, people watch and catch up with our 8 year old friendship.

Itinerary Overview

Generally people finish the same in 7n8d, but I am a slow one. :D

Day 1 – Delhi - Tashkent - Khiva by Uzbekistan Airways o/n Khiva

Day 2 – Walk through Khiva o/n Khiva

Day 3 – Khiva - Bukhara by Uzbekistan Railways o/ Bukhara

Day 4 - Bukhara Exploration o/n Bukhara

Day 5 – Bukhara Exploration o/n Bukhara

Day 6 – Bukhara - Samarkand by Uzbekistan Railways

Day 7 – Samarkand exploration o/n Samarkand

Day 8 – Samarkand exploration o/n Samarkand

Day 9 – Samarkand - Tashkent by Uzbekistan Railways o/n Tashkent

Day 10 – Explore Tashkent nightlife o/n Tashkent

Day 11 – Tashkent - Delhi by Uzbekistan Airways

After I landed in Uzbekistan, I realized the country has much more to offer beyond architecture. The list of these larger than life monuments, I painstakingly selected while combing through its thrilling history, where wars were planned and summons were made, where new empires were coronated and old ones were slaughtered, where love and power both were given a form, went down in the priority list of to-dos. The trip took an intense turn towards the fusion of then and now, understanding tourism and economy, reminiscing the Old Silk route stories, food, mixed cultures and people, and its associative art.

Have created umbrellas under sections of History, Food, People, Sightseeing etc and shared tips around the same. Do feel free to drop a comment for any query. :)

History – (my favorite part)

 A quick recap from 3 BC to 2024 AD

It’s simple – To know the ‘ NOW’ one needs to know the ‘Then - HISTORY’.

Starting with the OLD SILK ROUTE. Commencing from the markets of Persia and ending in China, with its nerves all across the world, the Old Silk Route was the ultimate adventure and the backbone of the world’s economy until 1800’s. The Persians discovered the beauty of Silk, only to be found in China that time, wanted to drape their country in the same. In pursuit of Silk, a material that shines like a cloud, light as wind and weightless as water, the Persians in 3BC as Alexander the Great their leader embarked the first attempt to create this ever-thrilling Silk Route. He arrived in Uzbekistan understanding its fortunate location to establish an empire solely to trade. He introduced Zoroastrianism to the land, a road system, irrigation system and farming, making all eyes turn towards Uzbekistan as a hot spot.

After the Persians came the Kushan Dynasty in 1 AD, who introduced Buddhism, Hinduism, Nature worshipping, sciences and art to the land.

Then came, Chengis Khan with his Mongol army in 11AD to expand his empire and state his power on the Silk Route. He plundered, looted, and brought the city line to the ground. For obvious reasons he only lasted as a ruler till the 13 AD. During this time he attempted to invade India but his army stood a miss match against the Indian army of elephants.

And finally, the most famous and revered king, Timur, established the Timurid dynasty after political killing and lasted from 13 to 16 AD. Timur was from Mongol and Turk lineage, made Samarkand his capital and gave Uzbekistan its character as we see today by making it the biggest trade hub on the Silk Route. Read a semi fictional story on Timur’s coronation - Timur, the Khan of Uzbekistan.

The next prominent dynasty which came about was the Mughal Dynasty lead by Babur, (does this name ring a bell in relation with the history of India?) the great great great grandson of Timur from the 16 to 18 AD. This was the time when rulers of Uzbekistan decided to expand their prowess worldwide.

Once the trade system shifted its modes from land, the Russians took over in the 19 AD until 1991. They ruled almost entire Central Asia for its natural resources and agricultural production, until the lands were depleted.

Now, Uzbekistan is a free country, thriving on tourism and mining. It is still finding its place in the world while providing a quality life to its people.

Tip – Hire a guide at Ark of Bukhara in Bukhara & Registan in Samarkand. Guides in Uzbekistan are quite expensive but worth every penny only if you are interested to dig.

People of Uzbekistan –

Though prominently Islamic, the country is liberal and accepting of all cultures and religions. They are humble, curious and welcoming. They are proud and accepting of their history and culture. They are big fans of Bollywood and Aishwarya my friend was felicitated with many Bollywood songs sung in awe of Aishwarya Rai.

No wonder they love Indians! We were stopped almost everywhere by locals to take pictures with (at one point we even declined). On witnessing this fascination, I asked Krusheda, a beautiful soul we met in a Plov restaurant in Bukhara, about these recurring events. And, she unlocked the door to history! She shared that Babur, the one who started the Mughal Dynasty in India after defeating Lodhi Dynasty was an Uzbeki from Samarkand. “So we feel, Indians are our brothers and sisters.” She also explained how the richer economy of India, Bollywood and the Taj Mahal makes it more exciting for the Uzbeks.

Uzbeki women are strong headed and have equal share in jobs. I found them to be Cab drivers, Policia, Tour guides, restaurant and homestay owners. You name it and women in their elegant pant and shirts would score a badge of honor.

Uzbekis are a mix of Jews, Tajiks, Kazaks, Chinese Kazaks, Turkis, Afghans and of course Russians. This makes the country full of flavor.

Trivia -. An Uzbek marriage ceremony happens with fire as integral part of a ritual borrowed from the Zoroastrians – Alexander from Persia, along with the traditional ceremony of Nikah.

Tip - Book homestays and Guesthouses in the old city, over hotels if you are fine with experience over luxury. By doing so, one can walk to the most of the spots, markets, live with locals, be part of local activities, make their travel economical and ecofriendly. We learnt how to pickle cucumbers and chilly with our hosts in Bukhara in their kitchen.

Food and cuisines –

Trivia – Do you know why we call dried plums as – Aloo Bukhara in India? Because, dried plum, was one of the most traded commodity from Bukhara. Plums grew and were dried in the desert heat of Bukharan landscape and sold in the Bazaars or Zargorons/ Trading domes. Indian traders used to bring them back home as Aroo/ Aloo Bukhara i.e. Plums from Bukhara. is still relished in India as a delicate snack served only to the chief guests.

I think you would have guessed by now - along with people, food travelled too. So one can find an essence of Tibetan, Chinese, Russian, Kazak, Turki, Mongolian, Indian and Persian preparation on this part of ancient Silk route. Primarily, a meat eating country, vegetarian food could be a challenge on the street. Luckily, I wasn’t a vegetarian then and I enjoyed my fill! Aishwarya, a vegan, had a hard time finding sumptuous food but we managed with their local breads and home pickled veggies along with Tomato and Brinjal salad.

On day 5, I was so saturated with eating meat that both of us for our own reasons were on a mission to search for an Indian restaurant in Samarkand, the land of Timur where horse meat was a sustainable way to eat.

Plov being the national dish of Uzbekistan reminded me of the pulao in India, only the vegetables are replaced by dry fruits and meats or primarily that grows in the desert terrains.Then there was Samsa – similar to the Indian snack Samosa with many fillings other than potato. Pumpkin Samsa had an unique filling. At some point, I was actually questioning the validity of Indian cuisine. However, once I was back to India my brother, also a history nerd and foody took me for a food walk into Old Delhi and Laj Pat Nagar to ease my curiosity.

Then we also had a variety of Dimsums, called Manti and soups called Lagman soup, which resembled preps of Thukpas, Thenthuks, Kauris from China, Nepal and Tibet. A fried Lagman reminded me of dry Thenthuks found in Tibetan restaurants all over. Lagman means stretched dough, and almost all cultures have a version of a stretched dough – noodles, flat noodles, macronis, pastas etc.

Then were Kabobs or kababs, a variety of them. Juicy, marinated in dill, cumin, parsley, curd/cream and all Uzbeki goodness. Russians call them as – Shashliks.

Uzbekis are big on salads and fruits, which are served with all meals to help digest the meat. The watermelons and muskmelons are to die for there! An everyday breakfast is local bread, fried eggs, fried meat, loads of fruit, homemade cream cheese and jams all served in Ishkor cutlery. My heart was full along with my belly after every breakfast.

About beverages – Green tea, herb teas and beer - Sarbast, we had the most. One has to buy water everywhere due to lack of fresh source of drinking water in the country.

Must have and to be brought back – Uzbekistan Gold (vodka). Try it yourself and there will be no questions asked.

The list goes on like Shurpa, Dimlama, Shivit Oshi! Though Uzbekistan doesn’t have similar spices as India, its food scene is diverse and one really needs a strong gut to explore it all at once!

Tip for vegetarians – Speak to your stay hosts beforehand about your meals preferences. Keep some space in your luggage to carry some snacks with yourself if you are Han-gry kinds.

Art  & Architcture -

Being a Rajasthani I found many similarities in the art forms. And guess what? The Kashmiris would say the same :D

Susane, an embroidery style, indigenous to Uzbekistan travelled to India through the trading hubs of Kashmir and Rajasthan. Metalwork, miniature art, all that I grew up seeing as a traditional art form of Rajasthan, are originally from Uzbekistan. Had a humbling feeling while realizing these facts standing at a small souvenir stall in Bukhara. I found Miniature art to be practiced in the Kangra region of Himachal too where Rajasthan kings had forts at some point in time of history.

Architecture- primarily Islamic did travel to many parts of the world. But what one witnesses in the streets of Khiva, Samarkand and Bukhara can’t be resurrected again. They were made in 1400’s and no one else can recreate them. Period. Imagine yourself surrounded by colorful building scaling Taj Mahal! It’s a different world!

What an experience to be able to only sit on the pathways against this larger than life context and watch the this part of ancient history right before your eyes. My heart was full!

Tip - Know how do you want to spend your time. If you are the one to do it all, then get good number of days with you to really be able to soak in the content. If you are a slightly more chill kinds, then 10n11d is a good amount of time to be in a country which has so much to offer. Create your itinerary for the day. Talk to locals. I got in touch with people from Uzbekistan who helped me look for the unseen niches too.

Sightseeing and things we did–

Get your walking shoes ready dear friend!

1. Khiva – A. The entire Old City Complex or ICHAN KALA (Inner City) of the Khans is also a World Heritage UNESCO site. The spirit of the Khannate still lingers and the monuments reek of grandeur and history. The complex took me back to the scenes of – The Arabian nights! One can recreate images of a buzzing bazaar with watermelon carts, jewelry, food and people in their caps walking in streets shaded by the mountainous structures of Mosques, schools and palaces.

B. We stayed inside the complex itself at Guest House Orzu - 3.5/5

C. Restaurants - Cafe Zarafshon & Cafe Terrasa

D. Local evening dances, puppet shows and gig at the town's square.

2. Bukhara – The biggest trading hub on the Silk Route and one of the most beautiful city in Uzbekistan.

This semi fictional story will lay the scene for you - Scene from Toqi Zargaron

A. Ark of Bukhara -The citadel where every empire started from.

B. The Bozors or 3 Zargarons (Trading domes), designed such to suit the desert climate of Bukhara.

C. Chore Minor Madrasah

D. Kalan Mosque - The only structure, Chengiz Khan chose not to plunder.

E. Restaurants - Cafe Khalva & Labi Hovuz

F. We stayed at Rahmat Guesthouse, in the old city - 5/5. Everything was walking distance from this place.

3. Samarkand – It has 2 sides. One is the old city - Afrosiab and area around, which reeks of History, turquoise blue monuments, plov and samsa stalls and culture. The second is what Russians developed for their commercial gains, a concrete jungle.

A. Registan Square & Sha-i-Zinda are the must do’s.

B. We also went to the Afrasiab Museum and met Mr. Abul, an Uzbeki whose learning English, who gave us an informational walk with him.

C. In the shear mood to pamper ourselves we booked a Turkish Hamam. The experience was 6/10, perhaps because I am soo used to present day Spa treatments. There underground set up was worth witnessing.

D. We stayed at Old Street Guest House, near the Registan Square - 3.5/5. Choosing this location worked for us as by the time we reached Samarkand, the architecture became a part of our context. We slowed down and enjoyed our days relaxing with their local beer in cafes, sketching, reading and people watching at Registan Square.

E. The Bozor - Like how Crowfard market is to Bombay and Chandni Chowk to Delhi, similarly this Bazaar is the one stop shop for Samarkand and regions around. We bought unique souvenirs for our family and friends. And had the best Pomegranate juice to keep the engine going.

4. Tashkent – Loved the city. Though was there for a short period of time as a stop over, we only café hopped and drank some amazing Uzbekistan Gold vodka.

From my wander ’list’ – I would love to live in Tashkent and Bukhara if given a chance.

What / How did we book ?

1.      We booked direct flights with Uzbekistan Airways. In peak season (August to November) it costed us 45k return. It could be a thrilling experience to fly over the Himalayas, Hindukush and the Pamirs! Snow covered and dotted with emerald blue color lakes. Now pair that view with the amazing tiffin they provide with on your return from Tashkent. That was perhaps the best packed lunch I have had on a flight.

2.      All intercity transfers were by Uzbekistan Railways. Fantastic railway connectivity, highly economic and time efficient. These to be booked in advance. We booked them almost 1.5 months before our travel date through the app in the link.

3.      We chose all our stays in / near the old city of each settlement, so we could walk to the heritage sights, soak more, travel light and sustainable. All bookings were done on Booking.com & Airbnb

4.      Download the Yandex app for cab transfers beforehand. This app is like the Ola Uber for most of Central Asia. We did all our transfers from airport / railway stations / hotels by this app. It was safe and rides were clean.

5.      Language could be a problem for one, so keep your google translators ready. Uzbekis are used to this arrangement and help make communication easier.

6.      Local sims are available at Tashkent Airport as soon as you land and are done with currency exchange. In less than 30 mins you are back on Instagram. Hehe

7.      E- Visas to be made as soon as you book your tickets. It wasnt the smoothest online process but we Indians have had it worse on IRCTC. So should be fine :)

Finishing note – Uzbekistan has my heart. I found it to be a safe country for solo female travelers as well. It’s a paradise for history nerds, practicing architects or architecture students, archeologists, artists, antique collectors, writers and poets, adventurists, anthropologists or anyone under the sun. The quality of life is higher than India owning to the lesser population. I found the entire trip to be an economical one after shopping, flights, all stays and food. I have promised myself to travel to this humbling country yet again and explore the Eastern and Northern parts of Uzbekistan.

Till then Chao!

Hope you enjoyed the blog. Please leave a feedback / questions/ queries about anything in the comment section.