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Writer's picturekanupriya raniwala

Things to do in Gangtok : Cafes at M.G. Marg

Travel to Sikkim | Travel to Gangtok | M.G. marg gangtok | Mall Road Gangtok | Gangtok travel tips | Things to do in Gangtok | Gangtok Sikkim | Best Restaurants in Gangtok | Best cafes in Gangtok | best momos in gangtok


Evening Street view of M.G. Marg with pedestrians on one side and vehicular movement on the other.
M.G. Marg Gangtok by the evening

C’mon! lets take a walk on M-G marg. A trip to Sikkim is indeed incomplete if you haven’t spent atleast half a day here, at this glittering street. Going to list a few places i take my guests to while we are hanging at M.G. Marg.

Meanwhile, as we cross the flower laced bridge over Hospital Dara, over looking the moving lights, let me fill you up with some trivia about this part carriage street.

Until 2008 when the North Eastern Council decided to remodel the bazaar of Gangtok, MG Marg was a motor able market place. Gangtok being economically strategic in its location became the selling point for all vendors throughout Sikkim. People from all over Sikkim, used to drive / walk / hike their way to this bazaar to get the most out of their produce and effort. The vendors used to line up right where the footpath is now; displaying a colorful spread of items from their village. And Gangtokians used to flock in their cars and others not so affluent, walked the narrow shortcuts, to buy off everything fresh, be it vegetables & Giu from the West of Sikkim, fresh oranges from Dzongu, handwoven material from North Sikkim, Tea from Temi and the list goes on. As beautiful as a flee market it may sound, the chaos and commotion was very much like the Wall Street of New York.


Old photograph of M.G. Marg where locals are out for shopping and recreation
M.G. Marg Gangtok from 1960's

Cut to now, the market scenes have been shifted to the Kanchendzonga Market place (which we will explore in just a bit) and M.G. Marg is studded with cafes, lounges, bars, multi cuisine eateries ranging from Korean, Chinese, Japanese, Naga, Tibetan, Nepali, Indian and not to forget pure vegetarian Jain food. A central music system plays music ranging from classic Nepali to Rock and sometimes, The Beatles and John Mayer are found behind the speaker, if the operator is in a good mood. The street is super clean (and so is the rest of Sikkim) and you may get charged a heavy fine for littering, drinking or smoking anywhere in public. Keeping that is mind, lets begin our walk from the statue of Mahatma Gandhi, where tourists flock together to take pictures as a memory of M.G. Marg, established when Sikkim became a part of India post 1975.

Trivia – Leh market followed the same example as M.G. marg, commissioning the same designer to remodel the street into a fully pedestrian one.

As you walk on the paved pedestrian path of M.G. keep this must visit places list, close to you in order to save time and have the best Gangtok experience.



Kingfisher beer in a mug
Day chilling at Yak restaurant, Tashi Delek, Gangtok

1.      Yak Restaurant, Hotel Tashi Delek – If you are a day chiller then this is the place for you! Branching off from M.G. Marg, the restaurant opens up onto the terrace of the hotel, overlooking the entire valley with unobstructed views of Mt. Kanchendzonga, on a lucky day of course. The most exciting part about this place is that they have happy hours running all the time. So go knock yourselves out and try the local beer of Sikkim – Hit (ultra strong), Dansberg Strong (medium strong) & Dansberg Blue (a light tasteful beer). The have an elaborate menu as well serving both Veg & Non veg options. Don’t miss their roasted pork belly! The interiors are subtle and tasteful for a semi covered restaurant, done by a local firm, PPA (Prashant Pradhan Architects).

Overview –

Roof top, Multi cuisine, Best drinking place in Gangtok, Apt for Family & Friends

Ambience – 9/10

Food – 7/10

Service – 7/10

Location – 10/10

Pricing – 9/10

 

2 mugs of Dansberg beer with Jhol momo and a Mutton Thakali on the table at Nimtho, gangtok branch
Me when i visit NImtho, Gangtok

2.      Nimtho – You cant miss a soulful Thakali if in Gangtok! Thakali is a traditional Nepalese meal consisting of Meat (of your choice) gravy, Daal, Sabjis and fermented condiments and achaars served with ‘running’ rice. They also serve other lip smacking local snacks and items along with locally fermented alcohol (you also get all other brands here). The Nepalese fried chicken makes it the best call for the table to start with. Both Veg & non Veg options are available. The interiors created represent a traditional kitchen or ‘Bhansa ghar’ in Nepalese household. The restaurant looks over the street and makes it a perfect place for a slow easy lunch / dinner!

Overview –

Experiential, Nepali & Tibetan Cuisine

Ambience – 9/10

Food – 9/10

Service – 9/10

Location – 9/10

Pricing – 8/10


Local artists from Sikkim & Darjeeling, performing on Gangtok Groove stage on Christmas eve
Gangtok Groove scenes on a weekend

3.      Gangtok Groove – As the name suggests, this place was created to explore and promote local artists, musicians & stand-up comics and hands down it has been a scussecful attempt. Keep a tab on their Facebook or Instagram page to know more about the gigs happening between Thurday and Sunday. They often have a cover charge which goes directly to the artists, to support and promote them. The interiors are beautiful with great acoustic strategy to make the most out of the gig. They have an outdoor seating too overlooking the busy street. Thank me later for this later.

Overview -

Live gigs, Local artists, Mutli Cuisine, Good drinking place

Ambience – 10/10

Food – 8/10

Service – 7/10

Location – 10/10

Pricing  - 7/10


A girl holding a plate of aloo chura with the shop in the back ground
A plate of Aloo Chura at Chacha's place

4.      Chacha ka Aloo Chura – This place is for people who love street food or rather like to explore the small shacks and gems of a place. Aloo Chura is a Nepalese street dish consisting of a spicy gravy of aloo spread on a bed of Chewra (flattened rice flakes) topped with onions, green chilly and if you like it spicy then a loose packet of mimi. Chacha has been serving Aloo Chura since he shifted to Gangtok from Bihar and is almost sold out by evening. His shack is located just a small uphill walk from M.G. Marg onto Tibet road always buzzing with young and old who want a snack before reaching home. You cant miss this! So get your hands on his delicacy as you land in Gangtok!

Overview –

Street food, Budget snack

Ambience – 10/10

Food – 10/10

Service -10/10

Location – 9/10

Pricing – 10/10


a table of 6 enjoying the best momos of Gangtok
My guests enjoying momos on a winter evening at Shuffle Momos

5.      Shuffle Momos – Have you ever heard of 20 types of momos? All wrapped in a transparent sheet of dough. Hand made with love? Juice oozing out of the dumpling as you pop them in your mouth after dousing it with their fresh chutneys? I doubt! You wont be able to thank me enough for this recommendation, trust me. I can safely call them the best Sikkimese Momos in Gangtok. Right in the beginning of M.G. Marg, a flight of stairs take you to the Momo heaven. Try their Aloo Churpi (cottage cheese) momos, Spinach momos, veg momos and all meat momos, all served in the traditional way with soup. I got the opportunity to design the interiors for this brand and they are colorful & fun like the momo eating session J This place is a delight for vegetarians!

Overview –

Best Momos in Gangtok, Veg & Non veg, Local cuisine

Ambience – 9/10

Food – 10/10

Service – 8/10

Location – 10/10

Pricing – 7/10


a cozy setting with the presenter and the attendees at Rachnas book store, gangtok
Book readng session at Rachna's book store

6. Rachna's Book Store - Though this one is in Development area, just a 10 mins walk from M.G. Marg, its mention is necessary! This place was my to go to, to get a balance back in life. An always quirky conversation with Raman (the owner) about Sikkim current affairs after plonking myself at the cozy reading corners with books of different genres, used to be a fortnight ritual. My favourite visits also account for the book reading sessions, seminas and talks on travel, architecture and art, which i tried not to miss. This place is close to my heart, the reason being, its existence helped me settling in Sikkim as its a reflection of its art and cultural context. The store also has a cafe serving freshly brewed Himalayan coffee beans and tea along with a bed and breakfast. A must do if you want some alone time during your Sikkim adventure.

Overview -

Place for readers and writers, Local events such as book reading, live music, cultural and academic seminars

Ambience – 10/10

Food – 7/10

Service – 8/10

Location – 10/10

Pricing – 9/10



People have lined up to get tickets for Gully Boy on its release in gangtok
Denzong Cenima, Thado Gali, Gangtok

7.      Kanchendzonga Market & Thado gali  - Like how Crawford Market is to Bombay & Chandni Chowk is to Delhi, Kanchendzonga Market & Thado gali is to Gangtok. If you want to experience the pulse of Gangtok city then this place is a must! Thado (meaning straight down/ up hill) gali branches off the junction between the M.G, Marg and new Market road, leading to a hustling bustling old city plaza. On the left is Denzong Cinema (an enterprise by Danny Danzongpa, I watched the End Game here, reminded me of my childhood –going to these old school theatre – experience in Kota. On the right is a curved building along the contour of the mountain which hosts yet another famous restaurant called – Potala, serving authentic Tibetan food. In the center is Kanchendoznga Market, where a person can buy everything between a needle to a refrigerator, if they have newly shifted to Gangtok. It’s a fantastic place to get close to the local life and pace of Sikkim, ranging from food, fashion and lifestyle. This 5 story building provides with a  terrace where people hangout with tea after a day of shopping before retreating back to their homes. A must visit all in all.


A plate of roasted chicken leg with some salad and fresh green chutney served at OSM gangtok
Best roasted chicken in Gangtok - OSM

8.      Osm - Can be pronounced as awesome, this by far is the only place which serves authentic Indian & Mughlai food in Gangtok. Consistently good since forever, they have a lavish bar as well! I am recommending this place for all those who need to have one meal consisting of Garlic naan, Dal makhni, some roasted chicken and Paneer gravy! The restaurant has a seating for big gatherings to a date for two with contemporary interiors suiting all.

Overview –

Indian & Mughlai cuisine, Indoor seating, Suitable for friends and family

Ambience – 10/10

Food – 10/10

Service – 10/10

Location – 10/10

Pricing – 9/10


Hand stretched mutton pizza and pork steak at Coffee Shop, Gangtok
Lip smacking food at Coffee shop

9.      Coffee ShopThe best Pizza in town hands down! This place is one of my favorites when I am craving for comfort food. They have a long menu of shakes, deserts, sandwiches and pizzas, steaks and pastas, the list goes on and bet on it, all of them are up to the mark. Be it a day or an evening scene this place has got you covered! My personal recommendation would be the Rompipalle Pizza and hot chocolate.

Overview –

Best Italian food in Gangtok, Great place for friends and family

Ambience – 8/10

Food – 9/10

Service – 9/10

Location – 10/10

Pricing – 8/10


Well the list doesnt end here. There are so so so many more places that i wanted to share, but i had to select these as must dos when in Gangtok. Go knock yourself out on M.G. marga dn leave a commrnt if you visited any of these!

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